"Vacation calories
don't count" -- Rue Lata
If
Nafplia is past elegance and Athens is future apocalypse, then Rhodes is
freakin' Cancun—hundreds of mega resorts, thousands of beach lounges and an
invasion of the Northern Europe tribes. Rhodes has a lot of important history,
the most famous the Colossus of Rhodes, a 100 foot statue of somebody (neither
Trump or Lebron). It was one of the ancient Seven Wonders of the World.
Unfortunately, we just missed seeing it, as it was destroyed 2,200 years ago by
the same tribes that now vacation here. We decided to sample the magnificence
of this famed, now besieged, island.
A.
Guppy
Pedicure. Yes we spent 5 euros to have two inch long guppy looking fish nibble
away at our heels. It was creepy. Carol said, "They are no different than
the IRS when you make some money."
B.
Traditional
Greek Food Special. Tasty and based on the core principles of Midwest American
cooking. If you cook anything (meat, starch, vegetables) long enough and drown
it in sauce also cooked long enough, everything will taste exactly the same and
it is unlikely you have to douse anything with ketchup.
C.
Ferry
Ride to WWII. We signed up for a ferry to the other end of the island. For two
hours we steamed by the rugged, character lined cliffs and mountains of Rhodes
until we got to the caves that housed the legendary "Guns of
Navarone", of WWII movie fame. When you are at the Parthenon and the crowds
are down and it is quiet (last time was 1956, I think), they say that one can
almost hear the senators and Caesars speak. Same along these cliffs, except
it's the ace Allied special demolition team of Gregory Peck, David Niven,
Anthony Quinn and the British actor who is always in charge of the secret
desperate operation but you never know his name. Well his name is Richard
Attenborough or Anthony Quayle or maybe Jack Hawkins. I hope that clears it up.
D.
Search
for the Perfect Aegean Beach. At the far end of our ferry ride was a sand beach
that should at least make the Sweet Sixteen of Beaches. Lindos Bay is as was
said in the 60's "totally boss". It sits protected on three and a
half sides and is towered over by a
cute whitewashed village that hangs on a
cliff midway and a dual threat antiquity at the to—a medieval fortress with
those wall openings perfect for archers or boiling oil dumping and a surprise
mini-Acropolis. The top is a five euro donkey ride. We bailed.
Partly because
of anticruelty to jackasses concerns (Carol says except Trump and Fox News) but
mostly because we are cold turkeying all Acropolises (Acropoli?), maybe for
life. The only thing that might keep Lindos Bay out of the Elite Eight of
Beaches is the disturbing lack of toilet paper at the beach WCs - usually a
mandatory point reduction.
E.
Culinary
Back Roads of Rhodes - We met a classy New Zealand woman, Rachel, who had key
insider information—a list of trendy, locals only, restaurants. We decided to
go out to dinner together. Tanden was the self described "smallest
restaurant in Rhodes Town." There was a long waiting line— that trendy. We
don't know much about Norway, but our guess is that it is not famous for its
comedians. You Google "Norse Humor" and you get nothing. The guy in
front of us in line turned out to be Gunnar, a hilarious Norwegian wise ass.
His t-shirt "Bon Jour Bitches" should have been a clue. The
restaurant comped the waiting line-standers with fluted glasses of Sangria, we
ask Gunnar how long the wait was. He said, "I am not waiting. This is the
only place in town where you can drink free." He was with his cousins, his
girlfriend and her kids. They were smart enough to be cocktailing at the bar
across the street while Gunnar held a place in line. He said, "Yes,
waiting for a table for 7 in a 12 table place. We are the clog in the sewage
line." According to Gunnar, Norwegian weather was "Shitty. Even when
it's good, you think, well it's going to be shitty soon," and Norwegian
food, "What food, first night you have cod, it's OK, second night, not so
Ok. Third night, coma." The food
was good at Tanden, but the only trendy element was vertical stacking. You know
how they pile the fish on top of the mash potatoes which is on top of the
veggies. Carol and I oppose it. We are from Illinois, there is no vertical
there. It is flat. It is a horizontal state. The tallest place in the state
used to be a garbage dump in Cicero. We like our food flat.
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